Long, strong nails aren’t just a sign of health—they’ve become a fashion statement and accessory. Achieving them, however, is often a challenge. Whether you’re dealing with brittle nails, slow growth, or constant breakage, it can be frustrating to figure out the secret to nail care.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore tips to boost nail growth, prevent damage, and help you maintain nails that are both healthy and resilient. From diet to daily habits, discover how to grow your nails long and strong with just a few mindful changes.
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Understanding Nail Growth
The Nail Growth Cycle
To understand nail growth, it’s important to know a little bit about the nail structure.
The mechanism that controls nail growth is made up of a multitude of parts, but we’ll focus on the nail plate, the matrix, the nail bed, and the cuticle.
Nail Plate
The nail plate is what we commonly think of when referring to a nail. The nail plate is made up of mostly keratin, which is the protein that comprises hair, skin, and nails. However, the keratin in natural nails is more durable than in hair and skin, giving the nail its hardened appearance.
Nail Bed
The nail bed, meanwhile, is actually the skin directly below the nail plate. The nail bed is supplied by ample blood vessels and nerves and helps guide the nail plate as it grows.
Matrix
Now the matrix is where the magic happens. The matrix creates the cells that make up the nail plate and is responsible for nail growth.
It lives directly below the skin at the base of your nail and extends just past the start of the nail plate (think the half moon shapes you can see under your nail).
As long as the matrix is healthy and undamaged, it will continue to grow new nail plate cells.
Cuticle
Finally we have the cuticle. The cuticle gets a bad rap in the nail-loving community, but it’s actually a vital part of nail health.
This layer of skin forms a seal between the skin and the nail plate and prevents harmful pathogens from reaching the matrix.
While it’s generally safe to remove excess cuticle, removing it entirely or snipping the living tissue can lead to infection and damage of the matrix. [1]
Factors that affect nail growth rate
Now that you understand the structure of the nail, it’s easier to comprehend the nail growth process.
The average rate of nail growth for a healthy adult is about ⅒ to ⅛ inch per month. Certain factors can affect this rate of growth.
Toenails tend to grow slower than fingernails, but are often thicker due to a longer matrix. [1]
Have you ever noticed your nails seem to grow faster in the summer? That’s because they do! Nails actually grow longer in warmer months than in colder months. [1]
Age is another factor in nail growth. Children’s nails grow the fastest and growth tends to slow down as we age. [1][2]
Hormones may also be a factor in pregnant individuals. Some evidence suggests that nails can grow faster during pregnancy, especially in the third trimester, and return to normal after delivery. [1]
However, there are conflicting studies and observations. In some cases, nails can become more brittle and break easier during pregnancy. [3]
Realistic expectations for nail growth
If you’re a typical, healthy adult, you can probably expect your nails to grow the average ⅒ to ⅛ inch per month.
However, some external factors such as nutrition, hydration, exercise, and overall health can have an effect on growth speed, while nail care can have an effect on breakage. We will discuss this in depth when we move on to Nail Care Basics and Nutrition and Hydration.
The shape and density of your nails are determined by the matrix. The shape of the matrix determines the thickness, width, and curvature of your nails. While you can’t change the shape of your matrix, damage or infection to the matrix can alter the appearance of the nails. [1]
Nail Care Basics
Now that you understand the biology of nails and their growth, let’s dive into the steps you can take to keep your nails in tip-top shape so they can grow long and strong!
Luckily, there are a LOT of ways you can keep your nails healthy and prevent damage. Let’s start with the basics.
Importance of maintaining nail hygiene
As we briefly discussed, the nail has built in protection against infectious organisms. However, that doesn’t mean that pesky invaders can’t find their way in.
The best way to prevent this in your day-to-day life is pretty simple: wash your hands regularly with soap and water.
If your nails tend to trap lots of debris, invest in a nail brush to help reach under the free edge of the nail.
You don’t have to overdo it though. Excess exposure to water can weaken the nail plate. [4] We’ll talk more about this when we discuss Lifestyle Adjustments.
Proper nail shaping techniques
As your nails grow, you may want to shape them so they grow uniformly.
Filing the nails is a great way to achieve this, however you want to make sure you don’t damage or weaken the nail by doing so.
When filing, make sure you use gentle pressure. We want to slowly shape the nail, not grind it away.
If your nails are healthy and strong, you can safely file your nails in a back and forth motion.
However, if you have weak, brittle, or thin nails, shape your nails by repeatedly filing in one direction to avoid breakage. You can also switch to a fine-grit buffer for gentler filing. [5]
Avoiding damaging habits
Nail Biting
Hello fellow nail biters! We all know that our bad habit doesn’t help us in the nail growth department. If you’re ready to stop nail biting, try these techniques from the American Academy of Dermatology:
- Keep nails groomed and short to prevent excess surface to pick at. Some people have success by keeping a nail clipper and file on them so they can tend to their nails when the urge strikes.
- Try an over-the-counter bitter tasting nail polish.
- Get regular manicures to give yourself more incentive not to bite them.
- Cover nails with tape, stickers, or gloves.
- Keep your hands busy with a stress ball fidget object when you get the urge to bite your nails.
- Identify your triggers (hangnails, stress, work, etc).
- Gradually stop biting your nails by refraining from biting one finger or one hand. Once that is successful, add another finger or the opposite hand.
- If the problem persists, consult your doctor to see if further measures can be taken or to treat wounds caused by nail biting.
Jewels, not tools
Another habit that can lead to nail breakage is using nails as tools.
Biologically speaking, our nails are technically meant to be tools. But in today’s day and age, we have lots of modern conveniences to help us instead!
When you’re tempted to use your nails as tools, reach for something else, like a screwdriver, scissors, or similar implement.
Improper removal of nail products
For those who like to adorn their nails with acrylic extensions or gel polish, removal is just as important as application.
Improper removal of nail products can cause delamination where the top layers of the nail plate peel off. This can weaken the nail plate and cause increased peeling and cracking.
Always refer to a professional when you’re ready to remove your acrylics or gels.
Nutrition and Hydration
The role of diet in promoting nail health
Like everything in the body, nails need proper nutrition in order to thrive.
The complete nail mechanism utilizes multiple systems of the body, including the circulatory, nervous, and lymphatic systems. These systems all need a balance of proper vitamins and minerals to function at their best capacity.
The concentration of nutrients in the nails nearly mirrors the concentration of nutrients in the bloodstream. [7]
Essential nutrients for nail growth
Nearly any deficiency in nutrients can affect the nail plate, and sometimes even the nail bed. [7] Sometimes these deficiencies show up as abnormalities in the nail’s shape and color, while other times only show up under certain medical tests.
It’s important to focus on a balanced diet in order to prevent any nutrient deficiencies. Malnutrition in general can cause defects in nails. [7]
However, there are some specific vitamins and minerals that directly correlate with nail growth if you are deficient in them. Talk to your doctor before adding new supplements into your diet.
| Vitamin or Mineral | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Iron | Promotes blood flow to nails [8] |
| Biotin, other B vitamins | Can strengthen brittle nails [9] Stimulates keratin production [10] |
| Vitamin C | Essential for collagen production [11] |
| Silicon/Silica | Improves collagen synthesis, improves keratin structure [10] |
Collagen
Collagen has been a hot topic in the beauty industry in recent years, but does it work to increase nail growth?
There are several small studies that have shown a decrease in nail brittleness and an increase of nail growth in subjects who took collagen regularly compared to those that did not. [12] [13] [14]
Collagen supplements work by boosting the body’s own collagen production, which is a key structural protein. While nails are mostly made of keratin, animal studies have also shown improvements in the integrity of the skin barrier and increased nail moisture. [15] These two factors create a healthy environment for nail growth and strength.
As for topically applied collagen, the standard collagen molecule is often too large to penetrate the skin’s surface. For this reason, many topical collagen products use partially broken down collagen such as peptides or amino acids. While these small molecules can not rebuild collagen, they can help retain hydration. [16] This may still be beneficial to nails since hydration is a key factor for nail health.
Importance of staying hydrated for overall nail health
The human body is made up of lots and lots of water. This includes your nails.
The nail plate is composed of 18% water and requires hydration to remain flexible and strong. [17]
Dehydration in the nail plate can cause weak, brittle nails.
Along with external care, drinking water helps your nails stay strong from the inside out.
Nail Strengthening Techniques
Using nail strengtheners and treatments
We’ve discussed how to keep your nails healthy from the inside out, now let’s look at topical products you can use to protect your nails.
Nail strengtheners are topical products you can apply anywhere from once per week to daily, depending on the product.
Some nail strengtheners help repair the protein bonds in the nail to increase hardness, while others add hydration to the nail, making it more flexible and less prone to breakage [18]
Cuticle oil is another topical product that can be applied to assist in nail growth. Cuticle oils moisturize the skin and cuticle surrounding the nail to prevent dryness and cracking. [19] The oil can also nourish the nail bed and stimulate steady growth.
DIY strengthening remedies
There are also many DIY treatments that you can do at home to nourish nails and encourage growth. While these treatments may not be as potent as professional ones, they can work in a pinch.
Oils such as coconut oil, olive oil, and Vitamin E oil rubbed into the nail bed and cuticle can help moisturize brittle nails.
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can be applied by squeezing fresh lemon juice to a bowl and dabbing it onto the nails with a cotton ball. Wash off lemon juice with warm water after 5-10 minutes.
Lifestyle Adjustments
Avoiding harsh chemicals
To maintain the strength and hydration of your nails, it’s important to avoid exposure to harsh chemicals.
The most common chemicals the average person’s hands are exposed to are in cleaning products.
This can be easily remedied by wearing gloves when cleaning or switching to gentler products.
Protect nails from water damage
Although the nail plate requires hydration to stay healthy, too much water can actually weaken the nail and make it more brittle and fragile.
As nails absorb water, the cells that make up the nail expand and contract, causing stress on the bonds between them. This causes weakness in the nail plate and can result in cracking and peeling. [4]
While this doesn’t mean you should avoid aquatic activities or handwashing, there are a couple ways to prevent excess water damage.
One way to protect your nails from excessive water is to wear gloves while washing dishes and doing chores where your hands would be otherwise submerged in water.
If swimming is a regular activity for you, use a protective topcoat on your nails before diving in and moisturize your cuticles with a cuticle oil or hand lotion after you dry off. This will help mitigate damage from water, chlorine, and sea salt. [20]
Getting regular manicures and maintaining nail health during the process
Regular manicures can be an important step in maintaining healthy nails, as they keep your nails shaped and uniform, and treat cuticles for a healthy growing environment.
However, manicures and nail services also have the ability to do damage. Improper filing techniques, excessive acetone, and overuse of e-files can damage and weaken nails and cause sensitivity.
It’s important to seek out a professional who is knowledgeable about nail health and takes steps to maintain a healthy nail while manicuring.
When to Seek Professional Help
Addressing nail fungus or infections
There are some nail conditions that will require a doctor to treat. While these conditions can impede nail growth and attractiveness, they can also point to deeper issues.
Nail fungus and infection are two common conditions that can be caused by a number of factors.
Fungus is characterized by discoloration of the nail that may be white, yellow, brown, green or even black.
Nail infections appear red and swollen, may be tender and warm to the touch, and may present with pus under the skin.
While some fungus and infections can be treated at home with over-the-counter products, some may be more severe and require medical intervention. [21][22]
Addressing nail disease
Nail disease refers to a more serious set of conditions that may point to other health issues in other parts of the body. [23]
If you notice abnormalities in one or more nails such as dark lines, nails becoming more concave or convex, or nails that separate from the nail bed, consult your doctor.
Go and Grow!
Navigating nail growth can be tricky, but you’ve got this!
By focusing on the essentials—understanding the nail growth process, maintaining nail care basics, proper nutrition and hydration, strengthening techniques, lifestyle adjustments, and knowing when to seek professional help—you can create a mindful plan for healthier nails.
Now that you’re equipped with these tips, it’s time to take action. Incorporate them into your routine, and you’ll be on your way to stronger, healthier nails in no time. Your nails will thank you!
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